Wednesday, November 7, 2012

Spiced Fresh Pumpkin Pie

Pumpkin Pie with Whipped Cream, Closeup



Photo Tutorial  |  Printable Recipe  |  Hungry for Tips?


Fear Conquered: Pumpkin Pie

“You can try,” Boyfriend Javelin says dubiously. “But I really don’t like pumpkin pie much.”

“How can you not like pumpkin pie?” I ask. A little bit irritably. Because I already know the answer. Crazy people don’t like pumpkin pie.

“I don’t know,” Boyfriend Javelin says. “There’s always something strange about the flavor. Or maybe it’s the texture.”

“It’s just pumpkin with spices like ginger, nutmeg and cinnamon,” I protest. Boyfriend Javelin loves cinnamon. And he likes ginger. And nutmeg. He likes to crack jokes referencing Mihn from King of the Hill: “Needs more nutmeg!”

Grating Fresh Nutmeg

“I don’t know,” Boyfriend Javelin goes on. He’s getting his back up. He’s standing taller, shoulders back, starting to glare at me. “It must be one of those spices then. Or maybe it’s the pumpkin.”

“But have you ever had real pumpkin pie?” I ask petulantly. “Besides that store-bought crap.” Store-bought is always crap. Even if it’s not, that’s my default go-to word for it. I’m prejudiced against store-bought - but then you already knew that.

“Probably,” Boyfriend Javelin snaps. “I think Grandma used to make hers.”

“But did she used the canned stuff?” I insist, even more petulantly. I almost called it canned crap. But I catch myself just in time.

“I don’t KNOW!” he barks back. Now he’s really glaring and his face is turning a little pinkish. “Probably,” he admits a moment later.

I smirk triumphantly. Triumphant because he’s never tasted real pumpkin pie. Well, real, as in pumpkin pie made at home with pumpkin that’s not from a can. Although neither of us knows if he will be able to swallow a bite of this “real” pumpkin pie that has yet to be made. But I still feel triumphant. “Well,” I say with great authority, “Pumpkin pie made from a can is going to taste VERY different than pie made with fresh pumpkin.” I have nothing to back up this statement. It may not even be true.

But it felt like the truth. Because canned beets taste nothing like fresh beets and canned green beans taste nothing like fresh green beans and canned tomatoes really don’t taste like fresh tomatoes. So why should canned pumpkin taste the same as fresh? It’s simply not logical, my dear Spock.

Roasted Pumpkin Puree

But I have nothing to back up this logical conclusion. I’ve never tasted canned pumpkin and I’ve never tested my pie recipe with canned pumpkin. And I had zero evidence of a difference in taste during my momentous triumph with Boyfriend Javelin - nary a pie made and already spouting logic as fact.

Yet Boyfriend Javelin doesn’t press for facts. “Fine,” he says. “But I still may not like it.”

Skip forward. I roast the pumpkin, I roast the butternut squash, I murmur reassurances to myself. Fresh is better. Homemade is better. Only crazy people don’t like pumpkin pie. I go crazy with spices. I start with fresh nutmeg and crystalized ginger. I use vanilla bean. I add cardamom and cloves. And ditch canned sweetened condensed milk and use mascarpone cream cheese. And I murmur more reassurances to myself. He’ll love homemade pastry crust. He’ll love mascarpone. He’ll love all the spices.

First Slice of First Pumpkin Pie

Pie is baked and cooled. The apartment smells incredible. Boyfriend Javelin grudgingly admits it smells good. More reassurances. Of course it smells good. Only crazy people don’t love pumpkin pie.

Pie is chilled, whipped cream is made, first slice is plated. And handed to Boyfriend Javelin. “It’s not bad,” he says. He takes another bite. “It’s definitely better than what I’ve had in the past.” Another bite. “It’s still not my favorite.”

My First Pumpkin Pie Attempt

I roll my eyes at him and try my slice. Perfect. Except for some of the spices. And maybe the pie wouldn’t have overflowed the crust if I’d scaled back on some of the pumpkin and butternut squash. But it’s still delicious. “I think it’s good,” I persist. “What don’t you like about it?”

“It is good,” he says. His back is starting to get up again. “I’m just saying it’s not my favorite.”

“But do you think the spices are ok?” I ask. I’m already readjusting the spices in my mind. More nutmeg. Less cardamom. Less cloves.

“I think the spices are pretty good,” Boyfriend Javelin says slowly. “And I’m glad you used some butternut squash. You could probably use more. But then I don’t really like pumpkin pie.”

I sigh. “Ok,” I say. “So it’s not bad, then?” Crazy boyfriend not liking pumpkin pie.

“No, it’s pretty good,” he says. Then he winks at me. “Needs more nutmeg.”

I glare, but we both know I don’t mean it.

More tweaks, more sampling. More tweaks. I send pies with him to share with co-workers. I take pies to my in-laws. I add more nutmeg. I add cognac. I decide to use just a food processor instead of involving a stand mixer. I change the baking times. More sampling.

“Needs more nutmeg,” Boyfriend Javelin says. It’s a year later, he hasn’t even tasted his first bite. He grins at me and I chuckle. He tastes the bite and nods his head from side to side. “I think it’s good,” he says.

I raise my eyebrows. “So you like pumpkin pie?”

“It’s still not my favorite,” he says, half-smiling. “But it’s good enough to share.”

Crazy boyfriend. But I’m glowing with triumph. Take that, fear of pumpkin pie!

Pumpkin Pie Cooling

It is a delicious pie with an assertive but balanced spice mix. The fresh nutmeg and crystalized ginger perk up the flavors and I find cardamom and cognac enhance the vanilla. The pie is super-moist with a marvelously dense consistency. And of course it includes butternut squash - more flavor and a bit sweeter than pumpkin.

This pie is also an expensive devil to make. You could spend a small fortune on just spices. Vanilla bean sells like $15 for 2 beans at Walmart. At Walmart! Yeah. And the crystalized ginger is crazy expensive unless you live near a Whole Foods where you can buy it in tubs. And fresh nutmeg isn’t cheap (although it will last you a long time). Neither is cardamom. All these costly ingredients bake up a really delicious pie, but it’s like eating gold on a fork. So if you need to pinch some pennies, read the tips that follow the recipe.



Fear Conquered  |  Printable Recipe  |  Hungry for Tips?


Photo Tutorial

9-inch CorningWare Pie Plate
This recipe makes a 9-inch pie. I recommend using a thermal-shock resistant pie plate. Preheat oven to 400F

Pastry Dough for Pie Crust
First comes the crust. You will need enough pastry dough for 1 pie crust

Rolling Pastry Dough
Roll out the pastry dough to at least a 12-inch diameter

Pastry Dough Set into Pie Plate
Transfer the pastry to the pie plate. The easiest way is to roll up the pastry around the rolling pin and then to unroll over the plate. Be careful not to stretch the dough

Pastry Dough Fitted to Pie Plate
Work the pastry dough gently into the pie plate. Work quickly and do not stretch the dough.

Crimped Edge of Pie Crust
Crimp the edges of the pie with the thumb and index finger of one hand the the index finger of your other hand

Crimped Pie Crust, Trimmed
Trim off the excess pastry around the edges of the pie plate with a sharp knife

Frozen Unbaked Pie Crust
Freeze the pastry shell for 10 minutes - this helps to create a flakier crust when baking

Frozen Pie Shell Lined with Foil
Line the frozen pastry shell with foil (shiny side facing the pastry dough)

Foil Lined Pastry Shell Filled with Steel Cut Oats
Fill the foil with beans or oats. I use steel-cut oats. Blind bake the crust for 20 minutes at 400F

Partially Blind-Baked Pie Shell, Pricked with Fork
Remove the foil and filling, prick the sides the bottom of the pastry with a fork, and bake for 5-10 minutes at 375F

Blind-Baked Pie Shell, Ready for Pumpkin Pie Filling
Remove crust from oven when pastry is a light golden color in the center and starting to crisp

Brown Sugar Added to Bowl of Food Processor
While the crust bakes, prepare the filling. Add brown sugar to the bowl of a food processor

Minced Crystalized Ginger
Mince 2 teaspoons of crystallized ginger

Vanilla Halved and Opened
Scrape out the inner seeds from a vanilla bean

Measuring Fresh Nutmeg
Grate 1/2 teaspoon (packed) of fresh nutmeg

Spices Added to Food Processor
Add all spices, ginger and vanilla to the food processor

Combined Sugars and Spices in Food Processor
Process sugar and spices until crystallized ginger and nutmeg are pulverized

Butternut Squash Puree Added to Food Processor
Add butternut squash puree

Pumpkin Puree Added to Food Processor
Add pumpkin puree

Processor Sugar, Spice and Squash in Food Processor
Process squashes with sugar and spices until smooth

Mascarpone and Egg Yolks Added to Food Processor
Add 3 egg yolks and softened mascarpone cheese

Pumpkin Pie Filling Puree
Process everything until smooth

Adding Vanilla Extract to Pie Filling
Add vanilla extract

Adding Cognac to Pie Filling
Add cognac liquor

Pumpkin Pie Filling, Ready for Pastry Shell
Process everything until smooth and well combined

Pouring Pumpkin Pie Filling into Blind-Baked Pie Shell
Pour filling to prepared crust. Bake at 375F for 20 minutes, then at 325F for 30-35 minutes until center top is set

Pumpkin Pie, Cooling
Let pie cool at room temperature until completely cool

Decorated Pumpkin Pie, Overhead
Chill for 6 hours for best flavor. Decorate with whipped cream and serve.



Fear Conquered  |  Photo Tutorial  |  Hungry for Tips?


Spiced Fresh Pumpkin Pie

    by Javelin Warrior
     Prep Time: 45 min
     Cook Time: 50-55 min

     Get Shopping List


Ingredients (1x 9-inch Pie)
  • Savory pastry dough for 9-inch pie crust
  • 3/4 cup light brown sugar, firmly packed
  • 2 teaspoons minced crystalized ginger
  • 1/2 teaspoon grated nutmeg, packed
  • 1 vanilla bean, inner seeds only
  • 1 3/4 teaspoons ground cinnamon
  • 1/2 teaspoon ground cloves
  • 1/16 teaspoon ground cardamom
  • 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
  • 8 oz mascarpone cheese, at room temperature
  • 3 egg yolks, at room temperature
  • 1 cup roasted pumpkin puree
  • 1/2 cup roasted butternut squash puree
  • 1 Tablespoon cognac
  • 2 teaspoons vanilla extract
  • 3/4 cup homemade whipped cream (optional)
Instructions
  1. Preheat oven to 400℉; roll-out pastry dough into a rough 12-inch diameter circle and transfer dough to an ungreased 9-inch pie plate; tuck pastry dough into pie plate (be careful not to stretch the dough), then crimp the edges and trim off excess pastry dough
  2. Freeze pastry shell in freezer for 10 minutes, then line with foil (shiny-side facing pastry dough) and fill the foil-lined shell with beans or oats
  3. Blind bake the pie crust for 20 minutes, then remove foil and filling and prick sides and bottom of pastry dough with a fork; reduce oven temperature to 375℉ and bake crust for another 5-10 minutes until the crust is golden and starting to crisp
  4. While the crust blind-bakes, prepare pie filling: add sugar, crystalized ginger, vanilla bean seeds, grated nutmeg, cinnamon, cloves, cardamom and salt to the bowl of a food processor fitted with the steel blade; process until ginger and nutmeg are pulverized (about 3 minutes)
  5. Add pumpkin and squash puree to the bowl of the food processor and pulse to combine with sugar and spices; run food processor for another 2 minutes until mixture is smooth
  6. Add mascarpone cheese and egg yolks to the bowl of the food processor and pulse to combine with the other ingredients, then run food processor until mixture is smooth and creamy (about 2 minutes); add cognac and vanilla extract and pulse to combine
  7. Pour the pie filling into the baked pie shell and bake for 20 minutes at 375℉; rotate pie and reduce oven temperature to 325℉ and bake for another 30-35 minutes or until center top is set but wobbly, rotating and checking after 20 minutes
  8. Remove the pie from oven and let cool to room temperature (about 3 hours); chill cooled pie for at least 6 hours, then top with optional whipped cream and serve
An original recipe by Javelin Warrior. © 2012 Javelin Warrior. All rights reserved.
Powered by Recipage



Fear Conquered  |  Photo Tutorial  |  Printable Recipe


Hungry for Tips?
  • If you don't want to spend a small fortune on spices, you can use regular ground spices (which are significantly cheaper) and just vanilla extract instead of vanilla bean and extract. For ginger, use 1 teaspoon ground ginger instead of the crystallized. For nutmeg, use 1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg instead of the fresh grated. For vanilla, use a total of 2 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract and eliminate the vanilla bean. If use these substitutions, you can eliminate the food processing steps and just mix the ingredients together with a electric mixer (hand-held or stand).
     
  • A good pie crust can make a good pie spectacular and a bad pie crust and wreck even the best flavored of pies. So I strongly recommend making your own pastry dough and blind-baking the crust before adding the filling. Blind-baking ensures the crust is super-flaky and doesn't absorb the liquidy filling. I've provided the exact technique I use for blind-baking pastry crust, but the baking times will vary slightly depending on the pie plate you use.

    Blind-Baked Pie Shell, Ready for Pumpkin Pie Filling
     
  • Why cardamom and cognac? Sometimes vanilla flavor can get lost behind all the other more aggressive spices like cloves and cinnamon. I find a little bit of cardamom and some cognac help enhance the flavor of the vanilla without muddling the other flavors in the pie. If you don't have either of these ingredients, you can leave them out (although the flavor of the pie will change somewhat).

    Adding Cardamom to Food ProcessorAdding Cognac to Pie Filling
     
  • I avoid opening cans and so I don't use sweetened condensed milk (a common ingredient in classic pumpkin pie recipes). Instead, I use mascarpone which is an Italian sweet cream cheese. It's delicious and it's a big contributor to the texture of this pie. I do not recommend substituting regular American cream cheese as the flavor profile is quite different from mascarpone.

    Mascarpone Italian Cream Cheese
     
  • The food processor both pulverizes the crystallized ginger and grated nutmeg while also mixing all the other ingredients together. If you do not own a food processor, you can use a standard blender to pulverize the ginger, nutmeg and vanilla bean seeds using about half the brown sugar. After pulverizing, dump the sugar and spices into a separate bowl before beating in all the other ingredients using a electric mixer.

    Processing Sugars and Spices in Food Processor
     
  • Do NOT over-bake pumpkin pie. The surface of the pie should just be set when the pie is ready to be removed from the oven. In fact, the center of the pie will still be quite wobbly and that's fine. If you over-bake the pie, you will end up with SEVERE cracking on the surface of the pie and the brown sugar may crystallize, marring the inner texture of the pie. So check the pie early and keep checking as it approaches the end of the baking time.
     
  • I recommend topping any pumpkin pie with homemade whipped cream. Pumpkin pie and whipped cream were made for each other. Like it's wrong to eat pumpkin pie without whipped cream (it's not, but still). Besides, pumpkin pie looks a bit drab without the contrasting white whipped cream.

    Pumpkin Pie, Cooling



Scan to view recipe on your mobile device




16 comments:

  1. An excellent post! I love the way you write. This is very good and a great recipe. I've heard it said that there really is very little difference between canned and fresh made pumpkin but I am just a lowly Brit who only had pumpkin pie once in his life and really didn't like it! I am prepared to try it again if you send me a slice xx

    ReplyDelete
  2. One of my favorite things about Thanksgiving is pumpkin pie - I love it! Wonderful tutorial on fresh pumpkin pie and the mascarpone is a delightful addition.

    ReplyDelete
  3. That's about my favorite part of Thanksgiving (besides friends and family) - it seems like I only eat pumpkin pie at Thanksgiving (or unless I'm recipe testing) which is strange, because it's such a delicious pie... I'm so glad you like the recipe and thanks for the kind words...

    ReplyDelete
  4. Kayle (The Cooking Actress)November 8, 2012 at 6:22 PM

    *gulp* Confession: I love pumpkin pie...but I've never had "real" pumpkin pie. Not yet, anyway. My boyfriend doesn't like pumpkin pie either...but perhaps that is because he has not had real pumpkin pie (although he hates pumpkin everything but...maybe). This looks soooo good, that is what I know!

    ReplyDelete
  5. Spices are expensive, aren't they? And the thing is, they lost potency after a bit so you have to replace them from time to time. Still it's worth it. Particularly in pumpkin pie - fresh spices make all the difference. Yours looks terrific - really good stuff. But it needs more nutmeg. ;-)

    ReplyDelete
  6. Jody_thehobbyroomdiariesNovember 8, 2012 at 6:28 PM

    You are a fantastic pie-edge crimper. That edge is lovely. Here's a confession from me: I don't really like pumpkin pie. Except for the pumpkin pie at Costco. Is that horrible? But I would consider making this one because it's "real" and I do love mascarpone. I love the dialog again, it's fun to read.

    ReplyDelete
  7. Katharine@Leeks and LimoniNovember 8, 2012 at 6:30 PM

    As a Brit, I've actually never tried any kind of pumpkin pie (shocking I know) although I've always read about it in literature. After reading your post and recipe I really think that I've got to try it, it sounds wonderful and you even managed to convert Boyfriend Javelin with it so it must be pretty good! Lovely blog post, great writing and fabulous recipe - love it!

    ReplyDelete
  8. lol Folks have assured me there is very little difference between using fresh pumpkin and canned - it all really comes down to the other ingredients. But I still say otherwise ;) I'm so glad this sounded good to you and keep working on your boyfriend - maybe he'll eventually be wooed :)

    ReplyDelete
  9. I know you're supposed to toss out spices when as they age and I do notice that old spices tend to loose their potency, but I've been known to ignore that advice and just use them anyway. Yeah. I'm a wee bit cheap. :) Thanks for the kind words, John, and can there ever be too much nutmeg? (Probably, but...)

    ReplyDelete
  10. There is a HUGE difference between this pie and most store-bought and it's not so much the fresh pumpkin, I think it's the spice mix and other ingredients. A number of Frank's co-wokers have commented to him that they don't like pumpkin pie but this one they did. Because it doesn't really taste like traditional pumpkin pie. So. I'm not that you'll like it, but it won't be similar to most pumpkin pies... And thanks for the kind words - your pie-edge crimper comment made me grin cause I actually RE-SHOT the pie crust portion twice because I wrapped the foil too tight on previous ones and destroyed the lovely crimping ;)

    ReplyDelete
  11. Thanks for the kind words, Katherine - and pumpkin pie is definitely quintessential Thanksgiving Day dessert here in the US, although I suspect many wouldn't say my pie is the quintessential pumpkin pie ;) I think mine is a lot more aggressive in flavor and the texture is a bit denser... If you get a chance to sample, let me know what you think...

    ReplyDelete
  12. mjskit @mjskitchen.comNovember 8, 2012 at 6:36 PM

    This one is going to be on a lot of Thanksgiving Tables!

    ReplyDelete
  13. Aww, thanks MJ! I hope so, but then I always hope someone ends up trying the stuff I post, so...

    ReplyDelete
  14. The Squishy MonsterNovember 8, 2012 at 7:21 PM

    You've got me brimming over with excitement for Thanksgiving! I love your tips ;) I'm following you on Twitter, btw =)


    http://TheSquishyMonster.com

    ReplyDelete
  15. Jody_thehobbyroomdiariesNovember 8, 2012 at 9:07 PM

    Ha! That's funny that you re-shot the crust, but I totally get that. Why have a photo of an okay crust when you know you had an awesome crust moments before? I would have done the same thing. Well, if other people are liking this pie, I think it's the pie for me!

    ReplyDelete
  16. Thanks for the kind words and I'm so glad you enjoyed the pie, Angie! Thanks for the follow on Twitter and I hope you have a wonderful weekend...

    ReplyDelete